When we got stuck in High Tusheti, Omalo, because Karlo’s car stopped working, I thought I would be writing a semi-funny article on the collapsed roads, the freezing clouds on top of the mountain and Karlo’s quotes, such as ‘You don’t like weapons????’; however, that evening after a couple of chacha’s, Karlo told his story. Whereas we thought he was a Georgian from lower Tusheti, he turned out to be half Chechen, living in Grozny with his mom in 1993 at the age of 15 to pursue a career as professional judoka. Karlo, a big man, with the posture of a grizzly bear, told us how he and his mom locked themselves up in their basement, hiding for the bombings on Grozny, with no food for ten days; how he fled Grozny by foot, over the Caucasus mountains to Georgia where his father lived; and how he witnessed a young girl, walking in front of him, being hit by a bomb, how the cries of her mother still hunt him in the night.
The last couple of weeks the Northern Caucasus has again been in the spotlight of media attention due to an intensified spree of murders, suicide bombings and chaos. Although Grozny has been relatively quiet recent years, after Putin’s ‘restoration of constitutional order’ in 1999, currently the Northern Caucasus remains a bandit uncontrolled area, where the law of the mountainous people prevails any other law framework. Kremlin stating they are dealing with Muslim terrorist, however, when asking a regular villager in the Caucasus dealing with the mountainous people, they will all tell you the Chechens, Ingushetians and Dagestani are mountain people, and their mountain laws have been applied for centuries in the mountains.
Just before we got stuck in High Tusheti, I was in Almaty, 17 kilometers from the Dagestani border. We could see the top of the mountain pass, with a castle securing the border.
I wanted to go there, and watch over Dagestan and Chechnya. The villagers we were with arranged everything for us, and told us how beautiful it was up there, however, the evening before we would go, our guide got nervous. He said he would walk up with us, but we would have to walk the last 2 kilometers to the border ourselves, he didn’t want to be kidnapped by chechen rebels or being put in jail by Russian border guards. Apparently, the natural mountain border had been pushed since last year down in to georgian territory, and the mountain laws of the chechen and dagestani rebels applied on that region. Before last august war the people of Almaty would have frequent contact with the Dagestani and Chechens trading goods, but the attitude changed since the Russian guards secure the border more intensely and pushed it southern, after August 2008.
After our guide got nervous, we decided not to go, as it would be a to big risk, and being kidnapped as a foreigner wouldn’t be good for diplomatic relations (and as my french friend said: why would Sarkozy care about some stupid french tourist). Therefore we decided to go to High Tusheti, and our friend in Achmeta introduced us to Karlo. Pointing at his Kolkhozniki, Karlo said clear and simple: ‘No car, Tank!’. That evening, stuck in Omalo (we were not nervous, Soviet cars tend to break easily, but are fixed just as simple), drinking chacha, eating meat dumplings, khinkali, listening to Karlo’s stories in the mountains and his Chechen history, the night falling. Karlo is no longer welcome in his hometown Grozny, he played a small role in the first independent Chechen movie, and has been denied excess to it by the Russians.
When in the beginning of the 90’s the Soviet Union collapsed, multiple regions seceded and became independent States. One of those regions which also called for independence was Chechnya. Immediately following the collapse of the Soviet Union, the new elected president of Chechnya – Dudaev – declared the ‘pursuit of freedom from the colonial oppressor’. The Kremlin did not accept Dudaev’s declaration and sent in troops, their attempt failed. President Yeltsin first encouraged the developments towards independence in the Chechen-Ingush republic, he later passed the State of Emergency Degree in Chechnya to delegitimize the ruling authorities. Furthermore, he tried to replace the president Dudaev. In the passing years since then several wars have occurred taken place on Chechen territory. And a few years later after gaining the de facto independence and creating a lawless bandit state, Putin decided in 1999 to invade the territory again and to restore the constitutional order once and for all.
Russia states that Chechnya has become a free haven for terrorism. However, the so-called ‘terrorist-attacks’ by Chechen fighters should be seen as a result of the war, and not, as Russia argues, as its cause. A primary fact is that in terms of the human toll cost of the war, over half of the Chechen population has dealt with death, injury, or displacement. Not only did these cruelties wipe out the foundations of Chechen society, also is the Chechen economy and infrastructure been destroyed, typified exemplified by Grozny, which is has been leveled to its very foundations by years of conflict. As a result, a generation of Chechens is are growing up either in destroyed villages under the constant threat of zachistki, or in refugee camps without any reasonable hope for a normal life in the future. Therefore it can be expected that there will be a higher percentage proportion of citizens among this generation of Chechens, which will be attracted to the radical Islamic beliefs of the Chechen militants and pursuing their own mountainous rules. As long as the war continues, this spiral of violence will go on, which will eventually lead to an increasingly radicalized Chechen population. Therefore, a strong argument can be made that the so called ‘terrorist-attacks’ by Chechen freedom fighters are not the cause of the ongoing war just merely the a result of it.
According to Karlo, Chechens have their own rules, and they have three main principals in life: courage, love and war. He knocks on his head and says: ‘they are stupid people, they have no education, they only fight’. The tragedy of a lost population can be found in this. For decades the chechens have been denied any form of society, and hence, a bandit region will continue to develop where the laws of the mountainous people prevails any other.
